Penfolds Grange South Australia 2018

“Composed of 97% Shiraz with a 3% splash of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Grange was sourced from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, and Clare Valley. It was aged for 18 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads (slightly larger than the classic Bordeaux barriques). It sports an opaque purple-black color, while the nose begins as an impenetrable wall of blueberry pie and blackberry preserves. Patience and vigorous swirling eventually unlock an underlying perfume of Indian spices, cedar chest, sassafras, fragrant soil, and cracked black peppercorns, with slowly emerging wafts of licorice, charcuterie, and rose oil. The assertive, full-bodied palate is taut and muscular, featuring very firm, super tight-knit tannins and seamless acidity, finishing long, long, long. Undoubtedly one of the great modern era Granges, this 2018 is like a hypothetical blend of the concentrated, powerful 2013, albeit with the latent expressiveness of the fabulously opulent, flamboyant 2008. Try to keep your hands off this multifaceted powerhouse for 10-15 years and then drink it over the next 50 years+ or bequeath it to your favored next of kin.”

“A robust Grange from a lauded vintage, this wields sheer power with such compelling prowess. Uncompromising Grange. There are rich blackberries and plums on offer, together with brazen oak and abundant notes of blackcurrants, black cherries, charcoal, cola and hard brown spices. So fleshy and intense. Dark-chocolate and cocoa-powder aromas and flavors here, too. The tannins are polished and long, extruding deep into the finish and holding endlessly. Dark chocolate, black cherry, dark plum and more. Impressive. Brazen. One of the great Granges that will drink magnificently for decades to come.”

“This wine comes with high expectations—as does the vintage. The 2018 vintage across South Australia (and cheekily, we could probably extend the accolade to all of Australia) was excellent. It was warm, but without incident, and responsible for powerfully ripe, serious wines. Many producers made some of their best wines in this vintage. So here, to the 2018 Grange: there is spiced raspberry, lashings of salted licorice, red curry paste, layers of forest berries, rendered lamb fat and crushed pink peppercorns to start. In the mouth, the tannins close around the fruit with the same polish and seamlessness as the 2008, possibly the 2004? Very different vintages, but there is a textural similarity for me. This is polished and glossy and so very pretty. It contains 3% Cabernet Sauvignon this year, and 69% Barossa, 18% McLaren Vale and the balance from Clare Valley. Each of the regions brings with it its own characteristics. Barossa brings the red dirt, blood, deli meat and rust. McLaren Vale brings the plush purple fruits with a side of meat and licorice. Clare brings the polish, the opulence and the velvet texture. With their powers combined, this is an extraordinary Grange. One of the true greats, which will only get better as it ages.”

“Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, subtle ochre brightening on the rim. Delicate mix of bergamot and vanilla, crème brulée, red forest berries, light Stollwerck chocolate, dark cherries, a hint of dill betrays the American wood. Deep and complex, fine red berryish fruit, some liquorice, but also some Black Forest cherry, ripe, supporting tannins, incredibly fresh and lively, has great length and assured ageing potential. A combination of complexity and finesse. (2030-2070).”

“A remarkable wine, bursting with complexity and intensity but on a polished, mouthcoating and juicy frame, which makes this easy to enjoy now. Features chicory, sarsaparilla, dark chocolate and salted caramel notes that mingle with ripe black cherry, framboise and huckleberry flavors, backed by hints of almond paste and savory details of cured meat and fresh-crushed rosemary that linger on the epic finish. Drink now through 2045. 426 cases imported.”

“The latest release, from the warm '18 vintage, of Penfolds's most iconic wine delivers on all it promises. Even sans decanting, it promptly fills the nose with a multitude of aromas, from black cherry and lightly grilled plums to dark chocolate and cracked black pepper; from roasting herbs and spices (think bay leaf, rosemary, thyme and dried mint), to a polished glean of well-integrated oak. The palate is powerful, in a dignified way, with a sculpted shape, fine, chalky tannins and persistent flavor. Decades of age await, but if well decanted and well paired, it's drinking remarkably beautifully now.”

“Inky, bright-rimmed violet. A kaleidoscopic, penetrating bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruit preserves, espresso, cola, incense, coconut and Moroccan spices, along with a smoky mineral topnote. Shows superb clarity and mineral lift to the sweet, deeply concentrated black currant, bitter cherry, dark chocolate, fruitcake and mocha flavors, which are sharpened by a spicy element. A vein of juicy acidity adds support and drives a wonderfully long, smoky finish that leaves a suave floral note behind.”

“The number 8 is linked to several memorable bottles of Grange, including '78, '98, and '08, so why not 2018? Prolonged winter rainfall helped set the stage for a fantastic year, boosted by warmer spring temperatures and ideal conditions for flowering and fruit development. The summer was dry and warm, with hot spells that pushed the final harvest into late autumn, when cooler temperatures produced excellent grapes from most regions. The wine is majestic in that Grange style, with superb concentration and grip, yet it never overwhelms the palate. It is aged in new American oak, but you would hardly notice. The blend is mostly shiraz with a small amount of cabernet sauvignon. The nose is lifted and intense. Winemaker Peter Gago's favourite description of Grange is "deconstructed Black Forest Cake". It's that, and so much more, delivering intensity without overpowering, along with complexing beef jus and sarsaparilla, before the sleek, dense tannins kick in to remind you this wine is built for the long haul. Widely regarded as one of the best Granges, it’s hard to argue. There's no rush with Grange, and my guess is, sadly, that the 2018 Grange will outlast me by decades. (Anthony Gismondi).”